A Wren Says

With a name like Phloria, I assumed  this offering from Phlur would be very flower heavy. However, on my skin, I got a lot of the sandalwood coming forward initially. I enjoyed it, but is that just because I enjoy sandalwood? I don’t remember much of the citrus. I did think of this in comparison to the Gucci Flora Gorgeous Gardenia and Gorgeous Jasmine. This one is definitely my preference far and above those two. It just feels much more balanced and wearable for my tastes.

I admit that I didn’t think to re-smell my arms. I do know that I couldn’t really smell it on myself at the end of the day when I got back home. And I can’t really tell you about the projection as alas, no one complemented me or commented on my fragrance. I did sit out in the heat for a bit, which has often led to my fragrance being more noticeable, but no seemed to notice. That doesn’t really matter though. I liked it, want to try more from the brand, and learn more about the brand. Which leads to my commentary.

At some point in 2022, the Sephora site proclaimed they had a new offering from Phlur. The option for another clean fragrance to line to try excited me. But as time drew on, I thought, “Why does that seem so familiar?” Then it came to me. I distinctly remember the modern art piece white bottles on the Sephora site. I told myself I would get them eventually, keeping the fragrances and candles in my mental wish list.

Way back in 2016, WWD reported the original owner and founder, Eric Korman, was trying to disrupt the fragrance category. The name Phlur, is a play on the French word for flower, “fleur”, and a reference to how the PH of skin affects the behavior of a fragrance. It is at the same time a knock at the traditions of the industry and an appreciation for the personal experience of scent. The customer could get visual representation of the scent to under it and then try two sample vials to see how they played on their skin. In fact, the owner preferred you the buyer to test the fragrances on skin, rather than testing strips. The goal was for the consumer to try scents, making the solely e-commerce something to be experienced.

Early coverage of the brand focused on storytelling. Instead of relying on notes and the type of language you get from perfumers, Phlur relied on images and mood boards. They described a feeling, a time, and a place to drive home the descriptions of the fragrances. As you read the passage, it was like you were there and could smell the scent in the air.

The bottles were sleek, white and modern. The brand was focused on giving back to charities. It wanted to keep costs relatively low for the consumer. They were clean and used sustainable ingredients. And then….

Phlur was bought by The Center in 2021. The Center is an LA based company that considers itself an incubator of beauty and wellness brands, helping brands evolve towards greater growth.  And later, influencer Chriselle Lim joined the group.

Lim is listed on the site and the new owner of Phlur. Under her direction, they rebranded to “reach Gen Z.” Out were the stark white bottles. In was color. Out with the majority of fragrances and in were new ones, equipped with cheeky names. Missing Person. Solar Power. Phloria (you can’t miss the easy connection to Euphoria). And also gone is the declaration as a clean fragrance.

So much of what seemed to be important to the founders is now gone. That rich storytelling is no longer on the site. And as fun as the new bottles are, how different is it from the way most houses do their bottles? In trying to reach Gen Z consumers, whatever that means, how has the brand alienated the ones Korman originally wanted to attract? As much as I enjoy the scent I tried, this whole new direction has me a bit skeptical.

I am not sure how to end this post other than to ask, “Is this really the same brand?” What is a brand?

Sources used:

Chikhoune, R. (February 24, 2021). EXCLUSIVE: The Center acquires Phlur, the clean fragrance company. WWD. https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/fragrance/center-acquires-phlur-clean-fragrance-1234747889/

Lieber, C. (January 26, 2017). This fragrance startup wants you to use photos and music to buy perfume. Racked. https://www.racked.com/2017/1/26/14362724/phlur-fragrance-startup

Spruch-Feiner, C. (February 22, 2022). Exclusive: Chriselle Lim reinvents ‘clean’ fragrance brand Phlur. Glossy. https://www.glossy.co/beauty/exclusive-chriselle-lim-reinvents-clean-fragrance-brand-phlur/

Young, V. M. (August 23, 2016). Online start-up Phlur is looking to disrupt how consumers shop for fragrances. WWD. https://wwd.com/business-news/financial/online-startup-phlur-disrupt-shopping-fragrance-beauty-financing-10512114/