A Wren Says

Okay, this is the last Sephoria post from me this year, but I wanted to come to you with some thoughts I had following a masterclass with Dr Dennis Gross and an influencer. The two were talking about the new releases from the company, including a brand new moisturizer that I will start using and have a review for you at some point. The conversation turned to how the LED mask was a crucial product in her acne healing journey. The focus on this face tool led to questions from the audience, including how it might affect more melanated skin prone to hyperpigmentation. Dr. Gross’s answer was that “skin is skin.” He asserted that because it uses LED light and not UV, then it couldn’t lead to skin darkening. It was at that point that I started to question how much research he really did when it comes to deeper skin tones.

If you have been reading my skincare posts for a while, then you’ll know that I did a deep dive into whether darker skin tones need sunscreen. You will also have read that there are six Fitzpatrick types (I-VI) and those that are IV and above are those that are deeper skin tones and that those types can experience hyperpigmentation in response to visible light, not just UV. Given you can definitely see the light emitting from LEDs, what does that mean for people with deeper skin tones.

I will say he said that melanated or deeper skin tones wouldn’t have to worry about hyperpigmentation because LED light is used. Only UV light does that. I’m going to reach out because there is evidence that deeper skin tones are more affected by visible light, especially blue light.

If you have a darker skin tone (Fitzpatrick IV and above), you may want to consult a dermatologist before you invest in and LED mask. You might find it irritates your issues, especially if you use the blue light setting. 

Beyond providing a caution, I want to propose a few questions. Are skincare formulators not testing their products across skin tones and types? Skin may be skin, but can brands recognize that more melanin can lead to different skin concerns? And that if melanin helps protect the body from a form of light it might change how the skin reacts to light? I am all for inclusion, but it shouldn’t come by ignoring differences and the variety of needs we all may have.