Vogue Business analyzed size inclusivity on the runway for Fall/Winter 23. There was reduced number of midsize and plus size models during this past Fashion month compared to last year. (Straight size sizes 0-8, midsize 10-14, plus size 16 and up. Most runway shows feature sizes 2 and 4.) I tend to have mixed feelings on this matter. On the one hand, there is the perspective on model health and opportunities for more people to work and see themselves represented. On the other hand, there are the issues of potential body size tokenism, increased difficulty of offering multiple sizes prior to castings, and my personal ambivalence with seeing models of different sizes on the runway.
In many circles, this is a controversial or hot button issue, and I am just trying to get a understanding of it now. My thoughts may be a bit jumbled, but do please try and find something in there.
Personally, I don’t need to see models of different sizes on the runway to imagine the looks on myself. I am more on interested in whether or not the models used for commercial purposes are diverse in sizing, because those are the images that the consumer sees. Those are the images that really tell the story of the brand. But, if sample sizes from the runway are used for the commercial shoot, it will be difficult to fit models of various sizes (which points the problem back to how they do runway shows, or how they resource commercial shoots).
My next interest is about buyers. What are they thinking? Are they making determinations about the size ranges they will carry based on the models they see on the runway? Do they get stack of information about sizes? How do they decide the quantities they will buy for each size? Is any of that dependent on the size of the body they see walk down the runway? Or is it a deeper issue?
I think size diversity in fashion is not just a “models on the runway” issue. I want to know more about the decisions that go into sizing for runway shows, the size range that brands carry, and the size range that is ultimately sold in stores. There are so many cogs in this machine that it would be too simplistic to point to just the most visible piece.
I’ll keep thinking this through and evolving my thoughts on this. Stay tuned.
This is the piece I referenced: Maguire, L, Shoaib, M., & Benissan, E. (March 13, 2023). The Vogue Business Autumn/Winter 2023 size inclusivity report. Vogue Business.
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