A Wren Says

As I went through the Dior+Balenciaga exhibit at the Museum at FIT, the same concern arose. Would Cristobal Balenciaga be disappointed to see what Demna Gvalsia is doing in his name? There is this fear that the late designer is rolling around in his grave. When you compare the intentionally beat up sneakers and hoodies of now to the dresses of a couture genius, how could you not get upset? I mean the styles are so obviously different, it is disrespectful. Right? Well…

I mean people, who themselves are probably gatekeeping what counts as high/luxury fashion, use his name to draw this battle line. But would Balenciaga the man do so? Honestly, I highly doubt he would bat an eye. (Although, if he were alive still, he would be a very old man. Stereotypically, everything the young folks do would be annoying, but I digress.)

There are already articles comparing the two. Demna embodies that rule breaking spirit. He is someone who designs for the people who will wear his clothes, using “real models.” They are both considered visionaries of their time, which are certainly different times. Demna uses the codes of the house for haute couture. So as much as you may dislike Gvalsia’s designs for Balenciaga, is he real problem?

Rather than pointing to sweatshirts and heavy branding as diminishing the legacy of a fashion god, let’s point those fingers where the blame lies. At the man’s own nephew.

The story has it than before Balenciaga’s body was even fully interred, his nephew was out there making business deals. Despite knowing his uncle didn’t want the brand to continue on after him, his nephew essentially said, “With all due respect, no respect to your wishes.” He then sold the rights to the name to the highest bidder in 1972.

I am not sure who bought it originally, but clearly they were not doing much with it. At some point the rights ended up in the possession of Hoechst, who sold them to the Jacques Bogart group in 1986. They made some fragrances and then sold to Gucci. And then we get Balenciaga back in the fashion world.

At this point, with the different players who are trying to make a profit, this is not about what the individual designer who does not run the company is doing. He is just out there being an artist and creating what sells and keeps him his job. These people are just trying to do what sells. And that is what is happening. You may not like it, but clearly a lot of people do.

As much as you may want to dislike what “has become of Balenciaga,” keep in mind two things

1. Be mindful of using your own name for your company. You can’t really control how that gets wrapped with your image. And you can lose the rights to your own name.
2. It be your own blood sometimes. Watch out for greedy relatives who are willing to literally sell you out.

For reference on the nephew see:

Hume, M. (March 5, 2010). Balenciaga enters the fragrance market. Financial Times. https://www.ft.com/content/0ebbd410-27e9-11df-9598-00144feabdc0