“Whenever I tell someone I’m a knitwear designer, they do this knitting needle hand gesture, which I always find really funny,” she says. “They immediately think of you as being really grannyish and boring – I don’t just sit at home 24/7 knitting and reading books. There’s so much you can do with it.”
Alicia Robinson as quoted by TJ Sidhu of The Face
The birth of AGR, or at least its first big steps, came about during a time known for its huge displays of color: Notting Hill Carnival. Alicia Robinson, the brand’s founder, was tasked with creating looks for a group of her friends. Those friends included stylist and Wavey Garms co-founder Rhiannon Barry, Htown founder Harry Fisher and musician Greentea Peng. With the number of outfits she was making, she figured, “… let’s make this into a thing since I’m making 20 outfits anyway.”
She reached out to Nike, who donated 35 pairs of shoes. Her friend, Stefy Pocket, photographed the looks. It caused quite a commotion. Awareness of the brand grew, and people wanted in. SSENSE even reached out to do a capsule collection. AGR was on the map.
In truth, it would be unfair to say that was the moment, that the carnival photo shoot led to the success of the brand. That would be to discount the level of hustle Robinson displayed for years.
As the daughter of a knitwear designer, the craft has been with her for years. Despite the tedium, the astonishing level of patience requited., she was able to stay focused on the task. It calmed her and gave her the joy of seeing a project through from nothing to a work of art.
When she went to school at Chelsea College of Arts, it was cemented, knitwear was what she wanted to do. But it would be done her way. After graduating, she interned with James Long. She created knitwear designs for SS 15. She would also do work for Yeezy, Yeezy Gap, A-Cold-Wall, Missoni, and Aluwhalia.
She recalls a big moment in her work with the Yeezy brand. It was the moment she was able to get them to trust her to show what she could really do. Before she had been working with set directives and specifications for looks. When she finally produced her own design, it was welcomed and became the first look in that season’s show. It was a pivotal moment that supplanted her not just as a knitwear designer but as a true creative spirit.
All the while, for a period of five years or so, Robinson balanced three jobs- company, freelance work, and bar/pubs. That would seem like a lot to juggle for anyone, but you can see how each area contributed to her success. Her day job kept her fed, freelance work built industry connections and credibility, and club life kept her finger her on the pulse of those who would ultimately clamor to wear her brand.
“I’m drawn to people that are a bit rebellious and don’t give a fuck,” Robinson says. “The person that wears AGR is super confident, walking down the street looking a bit mad. But loves it.” As quoted by TJ Sidhu of The Face
(image courtesy of Vogue Business)
Sources used
Bonacic, D., (February 14, 2021). AGR’s Alicia Robinson is Crafting a New Generation of Knitwear. Agency Eleven. https://www.agencyeleven.co.uk/agr-knit-alicia-robinson-knitwear-sexy/
Sidhu, T. J. (February 8, 2021) AGR finds the uncommon thread in British knitwear design. The Face. https://theface.com/style/agr-alicia-robinson-knitwear-fashion-design-london
SSENSE. (October 26, 2019). AGR is bringing sweater weather to carnival. ModeSens. https://modesens.com/blog/agr-is-bringing-sweater-weather-to-carnival-1418/
Stanley, J. (February 14, 2022). AGR Is Taking Knitwear in a Technicolor New Direction. Hypebeast. https://hypebeast.com/2022/2/agr-alicia-robinson-knitwear-fall-winter-2022-interview
Williams, H. (2020). Studio visit: Alicia, AGR Knit. The Basement. https://basementapproved.com/fashion/studio-visit-alicia-agr-knit/
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